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Home Various Castrezzone: la tradizione del maiale e del salame Castrezzone: la tradizione del maiale e del salame
All’inizio dell’inverno, a cavallo tra dicembre e gennaio, è tradizione secolare, anche nelle terre gardesane, uccidere il maiale per farne salami, salsicce, cotechini, pancetta, coppe, culatelli. Insomma, questo è il tempo, rigorosamente freddo, per realizzare una trasformazione completa dell’animale, senza perderne nulla, ma proprio nulla, ad eccezione delle unghie! Non a caso, nell’area bresciana il suino è considerato l’animale per eccellenza e, nel dialetto della bassa, lo si chiama signorilmente “el ‘nimàl”. In Valtenesi, invece, il suo nome è “sì” o “porsèl”. A Castrezzone, piccolo borgo di quattrocento anime, frazione di Muscoline, si può dire che circa l’ 80% delle abitazioni pratichi, da secoli, il rito del salame. Oggi le cose sono cambiate rispetto solo a trent’anni fa. Per esempio, è assai raro che si allevi il maiale in casa per nutrirlo secondo regole domestiche. Tenere attiva una porcilaia, anche in una casa di campagna, comporta problemi igienici non indifferenti. Ed è per questo che quasi tutti ormai comprano il maiale già macellato. Mediamente, il maiale macellato ha un peso di 120 chili. Una volta si preferiva la bestia grassa, con uno spessore di lardo alto cinque centimetri. Oggi, invece, il maiale più ricercato non deve avere uno spessore di lardo superiore ai due centimetri. Il colorito che qui va per la maggiore è quello roseo. Sono entrato in una casa di Castrezzone per vedere le diverse fasi della lavorazione del maiale e le rispettive tecniche di produzione. Qui è da precisare che il prodotto finito, in questo caso, è destinato al consumo familiare o, al massimo, al consumo tra amici. Per prima cosa si disossa la carcassa per raccogliere separatamente le carni e ripulirle del grasso molle. Si avrà cura di separare la carne di spalla da quella della coscia e da quella del carré (lombi e coppa). Non essendoci in Valtenesi una tradizione dello zampone e del prosciutto, si punta tutto sulla realizzazione degli insaccati, badando di separare le carni più pregiate per fare la coppa, la pancetta e, soprattutto, il culatello. Le altre carni vengono frammentate e, per così dire, tritate per lo più con le mani; quindi vengono salmistrate per 4 o 5 giorni entro un recipiente in cui si è mescolato sale, vino, aglio, pepe, cannella, noce moscata, chiodo di garofano (tutte le spezie sono preventivamente macinate). Dopo un successivo rimpasto delle carni per favorirvi la diffusa penetrazione delle spezie, si aggiunge un pizzico di salnitro e nessun altro conservante. La fase successiva è l’insaccatura: qui si vede l’arte del norcino. Infatti, può bastare una sola bolla d’aria per mandare alla malora il salame. In sostanza, mediante una insaccatrice meccanica manovrata a mano, il macinato va insaccato nel budello del maiale, appositamente predisposto (oggi, per motivi igienici, lo si compra già pulito). Anche la legatura va fatta preferibilmente a mano e con la necessaria accortezza, utilizzando dello spago. Così legato, il salame viene quindi punzecchiato con un tampone appuntito per favorirne la sgocciolatura dei liquidi superflui. Il salame deve poi essere messo all’aria per asciugarsi: di solito lo si colloca nei sottotetti. Dopo circa un mese e mezzo va appeso al soffitto di una canéva dove non ci sia riscaldamento di nessun tipo ma, possibilmente, temperatura costante. Finalmente pronto da mangiare, il maiale che, macellato, pesava 120 chili e, a sua volta, era diminuito nel peso fino a produrre 80 chili di salame, avrà perso, dopo l’asciugatura, un ulteriore 40%. La fierezza della gente di Castrezzone è tale che, sul proprio salame, non ammette confronti: non accetterà mai, quindi, di partecipare al “Concorso del salame” di Polpenazze. Ognuno, a Castrezzone, dirà che il proprio salame è il più buono in assoluto!
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